If you’re looking for a small town charming city travel experience that’s like in the US but different, I’d recommend a visit to Montreal. I’ve done two road trips from NYC to Montreal so far, one in the fall of 2022 and one recently over Memorial Weekend of 2023. So please note that I can only share my experience and tips, driving and crossing the border and places I’ve been, and things I’ve done.

Definitely pick Toronto if you’ve never traveled to Canada since it’s a bigger city. I’ve been to Toronto but slightly prefer Montreal. This is all based on my personal experiences as I’m sure everyone has a different opinion and will have a completely different experience than mine. I think Toronto feels too much like any other city in the US, and that’s not what I’m looking for when traveling to another city in another country. 

An’s Guide to Montreal

TRAVEL DOCUMENTS TO BRING

• Drive license/ID

• Your valid passport (must not be expired! I’m unsure about the 6-month expiry rule when crossing the border from the US this way, but just to be sure, make sure yours doesn’t expire within 6 months.)

• Green card, valid visa, or any paperwork that proves your legal entrance to the US when coming back.

CROSSING THE BORDER + TIPS

METHOD OF PAYMENT/CURRENCY

I use my Chase Saphire Preferred card most of the time. Apple Pay is acceptable, and there are also ATM machines for cash at the most popular touristy shops and restaurants.

LANGUAGES

French and English – You’d most likely be greeted with French first, but people in Montreal are most likely bilingual. I’d usually just say hi and thank you in English, but if you’re confident, greet everyone in French.

OUTFIT – top: HELMUT LANG | pants: REFORMATION | bag: INES BRESSAND | sunglasses: CELINE | flip flops: THE ROW

MUST-VISIT NEIGHBORHOODS

Vieux Montreal, or Old Montreal – the oldest and most touristy neighborhood in Montreal. It reminds me so much of SoHo in NYC because of the beautiful architecture, shops, cafes, art galleries, cobble-stoned streets, and the touristy crowd it attracts!

• Notre Dame Basilica of Montreal – It’s under construction both times we went, and it’s always so crowded. But it’s a must-visit if you’re into history and architecture.

• Rue St-Paul – popular street filled with restaurants and gift shops

• Place Jacques-Cartier – shopping and dining area, perfect to people-watch.

• Vieux-Port aka Montreal’s Old Port – ride La Grande Roue de Montreal Ferris wheel, Bonsecours Market, paddle or walk along St. Lawrence River.

Plateau Mont-Royal & The Mile End – Area with a lot of cool and hip cafes & shops, brownstone townhouses, and street arts. Drive to the top of the hill for views of the city at sunset.

• Saint Joseph’s Oratory of Mount Royal – great stop for family (Especially if you have an older Catholic crowd)

Parc du Mont-Royal – west of downtown, huge parking lots, easy walk to the chalet for Montreal city skyline – viewpoint is called Belvedere Kondiaronk. Then there’s Camillien-Houde lookout which you can drive to for views of the Plateau Mont Royal district, Olympic Stadium and Jacques Cartier Bridge.

Saint-Henri & Little Burgundy/Griffintown – near Atwater Market, so park your car and explore around local pubs and diners.

Little Italy has the second-to-largest Italian population after Toronto in Canada, just north of the Plateau. Visit Jean-Talon Market, one of the oldest public markets in Montreal. Go for pizzas, espresso, or perhaps the best pasta dish in your life.

Chinatown – go here for Asian food, of course!

Hochelaga-Maisonneuve – If you’re into nature, do Biodôme, Biosphère, Insectarium, Jardin botanique, or Planétarium. We got some last-minute tickets to the Chinese and Japanese Garden at the Jardin botanique (the botanical garden), and the Chinese garden was my favorite.

The Village is the heart of Montreal’s LGBTQ community.

OUTFIT – tube top: ARITZIA | trousers: TUERN STUDIO | belt: KHAITE | bag: PORTO STUDIO | flat mules: JIL SANDER similar HERE

MUST-VISIT NEIGHBORHOODS

Vieux Montreal, or Old Montreal – the oldest and most touristy neighborhood in Montreal. It reminds me so much of SoHo in NYC because of the beautiful architecture, shops, cafes, art galleries, cobble-stoned streets, and the touristy crowd it attracts!

• Notre Dame Basilica of Montreal – It’s under construction both times we went, and it’s always so crowded. But it’s a must-visit if you’re into history and architecture.

• Rue St-Paul – popular street filled with restaurants and gift shops

• Place Jacques-Cartier – shopping and dining area, perfect to people-watch.

• Vieux-Port aka Montreal’s Old Port – ride La Grande Roue de Montreal Ferris wheel, Bonsecours Market, paddle or walk along St. Lawrence River.

Plateau Mont-Royal & The Mile End – Area with a lot of cool and hip cafes & shops, brownstone townhouses, and street arts. Drive to the top of the hill for views of the city at sunset.

• Saint Joseph’s Oratory of Mount Royal – great stop for family (Especially if you have an older Catholic crowd)

Parc du Mont-Royal – west of downtown, huge parking lots, easy walk to the chalet for Montreal city skyline – viewpoint is called Belvedere Kondiaronk. Then there’s Camillien-Houde lookout which you can drive to for views of the Plateau Mont-Royal district, Olympic Stadium, and Jacques Cartier Bridge.

Saint-Henri & Little Burgundy/Griffintown – near Atwater Market, so park your car and explore around local pubs and diners.

Little Italy has the second-to-largest Italian population after Toronto in Canada, just north of the Plateau. Visit Jean-Talon Market, one of the oldest public markets in Montreal. Go for pizzas, espresso, or perhaps the best pasta dish in your life.

Chinatown – go here for Asian food, of course!

Hochelaga-Maisonneuve – If you’re into nature, do Biodôme, Biosphère, Insectarium, Jardin botanique, or Planétarium. We got some last-minute tickets to the Chinese and Japanese Garden at the Jardin botanique (the botanical garden), and the Chinese garden was my favorite.

The Village is the heart of Montreal’s LGBTQ community.

OUTFIT – top: LEMAIRE | jacket: ARC’TERYX (men’s) | trousers: ACNE STUDIOS | boots: MAISON MARGIELA | bag: ACNE STUDIOS

MY FAVORITE FOOD SPOTS

If you haven’t heard of or tried poutines, La Banquise is the spot! I am not a potato or french fry kinda-gal, but I managed to grab a portion to-go, and it was really that good! They’re a cash-only establishment but open 24/7, so you shouldn’t miss it! Greenspot Restaurant is another famous old-school Montreal institution with a great breakfast menu and smoked meat. They also have poutines here! Schwartz’s is another classic Montreal spot for smoked meat. Grab a cherry Coke and a pickle, you won’t regret it!

@ Matcha – Nester, the owner of the shop who makes and serves you drinks, is a fun and quirky guy. He made us roll some dice and poured us samples of his tea drinks of the day while explaining scientific facts that he learned through his travels and research (most likely from Wiki). We came looking for Japanese matcha, but we ended up with a completely different drink and aesthetic. I thought it was a fun and unexpected experience but would recommend Tsuriji or Matcha Zanmai for the actual Japanese matcha experience.

Kung Fu Tea (Old Port) – Now, this KF Tea spot is not the same as the ones from the US, and the logo is different. I got the Earl Grey Milk Tea with agar pearls, and it was good (much better than Gongcha or even my normal go-to Kungfu boba tea drink in the US).

Marché Atwater – If you’re familiar with Seattle’s Pike Place, then this is similar. I had lunch at Satay Brothers, bought some pasta and dry goods at Les Douceurs du Marché, and got buckets of strawberries from the fruit and veggie vendors. Other public markets to check out: Maisonneuve Market & Marché Jean-Talon

Pub Burgundy Lion – British pub with great beer selection and food. Love their fish and chips! Visit their other spot, recommended by my waitress, Pub Wolf & Workman.

Boulangerie Le Toledo – was crowned with the title of ‘best baguette maker in Montreal’. I got a plain croissant, chocolatine, and a chausson aux pommes with apple sauce filling, and everything was so good!

St-Viateur Bagel – Montreal bagels are smaller and sweeter, and when it’s fresh off the oven, it’s a delight! I’ve managed to try two popular bagel spots (Fairmount Bagel is the other spot), and St-Viateur’s is my favorite. It’s a cash-only establishment, and they do have an ATM machine inside. Don’t forget to get your cream cheese and fixing from their fridges since they only bake fresh bagels here.

Canadian Roasting Society – Montreal coffee is not my favorite, and that’s a personal thing (after trying a handful of spots all over the city every day on both visits). I picked up two bags of beans since I have a Chemex at home, and they’re good but not my favorite. Other great coffee spots I’d recommend: OSMO X MARUSAN Café-Terrasse, Café Olimpico (Mile End), Paquebot (Old Montreal), Café Saint-Henri, Crew Collective & Cafe.

Garde Manger – We got lucky with a table cancelation and got a bar seating at 9:30 pm on a Saturday. It’s an upscale seafood restaurant with a dark sophisticated vibe in the front and a ‘party’ scene in the back (so unexpected!). We got seated with 2 other couples at the back bar with 2 other larger parties. The waiters were singing and dancing, and it was such a fun crazy night. The star dishes were the Turbo Crudo (appetizer) and the Carrot (side dish). I had 2 cocktails and smiled pretty much the entire night there.

Marché Hung Phat – Vietnamese grocery selling lots of specialty Viet herbs.

Matcha Zanmai – decent matcha spot that serves food and other Japanese sweets.

Pho Tay Ho – solid Viet spot in Montreal with a huge portion for the price!

Hanzo Izakaya – great for a drink and some quick bites pre-dinner or late-night hang. It’s pretty spacious inside!

Damas (Syrian restaurant) – I found this spot on a Reddit thread, and it was an interesting dining experience. Service was friendly and attentive, and the food was actually tasty and delicious (like flavored-packed!). I don’t think we’re too big of a fan of food with too much yogurt or hummus, but I’d for sure recommend Damas if you’re in the mood for Mediterranean food in Montreal.

Dispensa Italian Grocery – cute spot for Italian groceries and yummy sandwiches. Check out a similar spot: Olive et Gourmando for sandwiches or little grab-n-go.

Restaurant Mélisse – one of my favorite brunch spots with elegant interior and great selection of modern French dishes and wines.

Leméac – Also another great spot for the classic but not too fancy French food and late-night dining. It was a fully-packed restaurant the last time we went, and I guess that added so much to the vibe. Great food and service!

SHOPS/BRANDS WORTH BUYING IN CANADA

Canadian brands such as Arc’teryx, Lululemon, and Aritzia tend to have better and cheaper stuff in Canada, so we always stop by a couple to browse for deals. Other than that for most international brands, you’re pretty much paying the same amount as in the US even with the conversion. Holt Renfrew Ogilvy is similar to a Nordstrom or Saks, so stop by if you’re in the mood for department shopping/mall. SSENSE (Old Montreal) is another must-visit since it’s the only retail store that SSENSE has.

Eaton Centre Mall downtown & Rue Sainte-Catherine: more of an upscale shopping

Boulevard Saint-Laurent, all the way from Chinatown to Mile End – vintage shops

SMALL SHOPS I LOVED

• Palmo Goods – some selection of vintage denim, check out their etsy shop.

• RETYCHE – located upstairs, inside Centre Rockland Mall. They have a good selection of designer bags, shoes, and clothes, so stop by if you’re in the area.

• BOUTIQUE 4110 carries so many of my favorite designer brands like St. Agni, Eterne, and Nili Lotan. They also have a section downstairs for loungewear and resortwear, so check it out!

• Estudio Niksen has more underrated unisex clothing labels with a great homeware selection. Must visit!

COOL ARCHITECTURE & ART SPACES TO CHECK OUT

• Habitat 67 – known as Montreal’s architecture icon! I only got to drive by and admire it from afar the first time I visited Montreal. The guided tour is back, so book your ticket here.

• Montreal’s Biodome

• Montreal Museum of Fine Arts

• Foundation PHI – I saw the Yayoi Kusama exhibition there the first time I went in the fall of 2022.

OUTFIT – top: HELMUT LANG | skir: COS | sandals: THE ROW | bag: LOEWE

WHERE WE STAY

Hilton Garden Inn in Midtown – If you don’t mind driving, it really is just a 10 – 20 minute drive from the hotel to most tourist places in Montreal. The hotel room is clean and spacious, and there’s a parking garage.

MY MONTREAL LIST I WANT TO CHECK OUT NEXT:

Joe Beef, Nora Gray & Elena, Smoked Meat Pete, Beau Temp, Mon Lapin, L’Express, Pichai, Boom J’s, Larrys, Tiers Paysage, Au Kouign-Amann, Olive et Gourmando, Tommy Cafe

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